Northern Morocco – Where you can travel between historic cities by TGV train

In a way, our arrival was lucky because we landed in Rabat, the capital of Morocco, whose international airport is fortunately smaller and much less crowded than Marrakech. In return, we travelled round trip to Paris on the French national airline, giving up the comfort of a direct flight, as we know that we can now fly directly from Budapest to Morocco, namely Marrakesh, and the journey takes just four hours. Well, even if there were fewer of us and the arrival procedure is more comfortable because of that, we should know that here, as in all Moroccan airports, we are thoroughly questioned about our journey and our stay. Be sure to have your return flight ticket, your hotel reservation where you will be staying and they will also ask you how you will cover the cost of your stay. It’s also good to have a local contact you can call if the situation arises.

Rabat – embassies and palaces

Rabat is an elegant, cultured and balanced city that is both evocative of the past and forward-looking. Rabat is the diplomatic, political and administrative centre of the country. It is the capital of the country, one of the Royal Cities, which still fulfils the role of capital. Rabat is refreshingly green, immaculately clean, a real gem. The Bou-Regreg river flows into the Atlantic Ocean, and across the river is the town of Salé, with which the capital is almost fused.

It is the home of the King Mohammed VI, who, unlike other royal families, has a considerable influence on the economic and political life of the country. Under the king’s rule, there is a high degree of order in the country, which also ensures reliability and economic stability. As a result, investors have confidence in the country, and large companies, for example, have set up more manufacturing and assembly plants in the country, which boosts the country’s GDP and diversifies its export palette.

High on the bucket lists and official tourist rankings, Rabat’s Medina, with its traditional houses, historic monuments and bustling markets, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a fairytale world of snow-white houses and cool, airy narrow streets. As we enter behind the more ornate traditional Moroccan gates, we are enchanted by the dreamy Riyads that hide behind them, whether they are family homes or first-class restaurants. If possible, they are even more beautiful than the pictures we have seen of them before.

For me, one of the most impressive sights in Rabat is the Chellah, a historic citadel with manicured gardens, Roman ruins and royal tombs. Its history dates back to Roman times, when it was known as Sala Colonia. Founded in the 1st century BC, it was an integral part of the Roman Empire’s expansion into North Africa. Over the centuries the site was transformed into a royal necropolis, the resting place of the elite.  The mix of Roman and Islamic architecture is fascinating.  Its café perched on the side of the hill offers a magnificent view of the gardens, countless storks nest in the trees, one of the ramparts stretches down to the plain in the distance and further afield you can admire one of Africa’s tallest skyscrapers, the 255-metre Mohammed VI Tower, a symbol of modernity. It has a magical atmosphere and it is no wonder that everyone likes to stay here for a long time.

Historic monuments include the Oudayas Kasbah, a picturesque citadel located on a hill at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, next to the Medina, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The beautiful Andalusian Garden near the Kasbah is a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city. Lush green vegetation, fountains and colourful flowers provide a tranquil relaxation in this artfully designed garden complex with fountains.

The Royal Palace is also located in the centre of Rabat, the official residence of the Moroccan King Mohammed VI. Although the palace is not open to the public, its grand gates and beautiful architecture are worth admiring from the outside.

The impressive Hassan Tower is the minaret of an unfinished mosque dating from the 12th century, commissioned at the time by Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third Caliph of the Almohad Caliphate, and intended to be the largest minaret in the world, which, if completed, would have been the largest such structure in the Western Muslim world.

Rabat has not become important as a commercial port city because of its shallow, sandy coastline. However, it is a modern capital with excellent public transport and excellent access to international transport. It is home to numerous music and contemporary art festivals. The Bou Regreg Corniche, the promenade, is an elegant and relaxing place for the quiet walks and picnics that are so popular throughout the country and the views of the river and the Atlantic. The Mohamed VI tower building will be completed in stages this year and will house a leading hotel chain as well as offices and apartments. It will obviously be prestigious to have space here for any purpose.

Rabat’s other major modern building is the cobra-headed theatre or Opera House, which seats 1,800 and is part of the phased development programme the King has launched in this area of the city. The theatre hosts ballet, opera, symphony and philharmonic performances.

The city’s Marina is stunning by day, but especially at night. The illuminated shops and restaurants are very popular and attract large crowds.

TGV – express speed between historic cities  

Morocco’s TGV equivalent is the Al Boraq, the first and only high-speed railway in Africa. Since 2018, TGV Duplex double-decker trainsets manufactured by French company Alstom have been transporting passengers between Tangier, Kenitra, Rabat and Casablanca. Their maximum speed is 320 km/h. The network will be extended to Agadir, a popular seaside resort. The ultimate goal is to create a 1500 km high-speed network within the country. First and second class tickets can be bought for the flights, with advance purchase tickets being cheaper. The first Al Boraq trains usually depart early in the morning and the last ones late in the evening.  The trains are air-conditioned and equipped with comfortable seats, luggage lockers and electrical outlets. A buffet car is also available for refreshments and snacks. Al Boraq trains offer fast and comfortable travel between Morocco’s main cities, making them an ideal choice for both business and leisure travel.

Tangier – gateway to two continents

And indeed, Tangier’s location, its geographical position, is quite unique. The city is located at the north-western tip of Africa, where the Atlantic and the Mediterranean meet. For this reason, it has always played a strategic role throughout history, both in shipping and in trade, in warfare, in culture. It was the first link to Europe.

The city itself was founded by the Carthaginians, but its history was also influenced by the Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Spaniards and English, and its golden age lasted from 1912 to 1956. Now a wonderful holiday resort and commercial port, the Tangier Med port is one of the most important logistical hubs in Morocco and North Africa and a major economic driver for the country.

Tangier Med is not only the largest and busiest seaport in Morocco, but also in the whole African continent. It is also one of the largest in terms of container traffic globally, handling more than 8 million TEUs (twenty-foot equivalent units) in 2023. The port’s strategic location at the junction of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean (next to the Strait of Gibraltar) allows it to connect Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia. It is connected to more than 180 global ports and is part of many international shipping routes. Next to the port is Tangier Med Free Zone and several other industrial parks, where hundreds of international companies operate.

In addition to its industrial and commercial importance, Tangier is a holiday city with a great atmosphere. Its elegant, palm-fringed seafront promenade, the Avenue d’Espagne, is like any popular Mediterranean holiday town; its restaurants, hotels and cafés are sumptuous, like Cannes or Nice on the Cote d’Azur. In addition to the upmarket holiday quarter, Tangier of course has its own historical and natural attractions. Medina, the old town itself, is breathtaking with its blue and white houses and be sure to explore the souks, the small local markets and the local treasures of all kinds of vendors, be it fruit, freshly baked pastries, bags or purses, handicrafts.

In addition to seeing the sights of the city, there are a few other attractions worth the extra steps/miles. There are several lighthouses on the coast, but the one at Cape Spartel (Africa’s most northerly-westerly point) is a must-visit and climb. The tower stands at the top of Jebel Quebir, 326 metres high, where it was built at the end of a cliff by Sultan Mohammed IV. It is the oldest lighthouse in Morocco. It’s true that up there, the ocean winds almost take you down, but the view makes up for it all, with the ocean waves crashing and the Spanish coastline in the distance, a fabulous sight.

At the foot of the Spartel Cape is the Cave of Hercules, accessible from Robinson Plage. The cave shows evidence of Neolithic occupation. The cave itself is partly natural and partly man-made. The man-made part was used by the Berbers to cut stone wheels from the wall to make millstones. The cave has two openings, one to the sea and one to the land. The sea opening is known as the ‘map of Africa’.