Morocco – ancient and seaside holiday cities, architectural wonders and football academies

Taghazout – the bohemian surfing paradise

In my previous article we last visited Agadir, the snow-white Atlantic holiday paradise. Well, when you get to Agadir, be sure to drive over to the picturesque, largely blue-and-white town of Taghazout. Just 19 kilometres away, you can enjoy the turquoise blue of the Atlantic Ocean from an excellent drive along the coast. Driving past several fabulous beaches, and over the hills surrounding the coast, with a number of accommodation options nearby, you might consider spending all or part of your holiday here rather than the big city. The local waters are also suitable for competitive surfing, so it is very popular with the younger generation and attracts surfers from all over the world. Taghazout is famous for its consistent and good quality waves, which suit everyone from beginners to advanced surfers. It is considered as one the famous surfing centres of Morocco.

Savira – the ancient city that turned musical pilgrimage site

We continue driving north along the Atlantic coast to the beautiful medieval city of Savira. The medieval feel of the settlement, once founded by the Carthaginians, is truly medieval, its ancient alleyways seem to have stood the test of time, and the ancient Jewish quarter is built in the same architectural style as the old city, testimony to the early existence of interfaith tolerance. This area of the medina, with a fortress at one end, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and for good reason.

The town’s unique atmosphere has inspired many artists, discovered by greats such as Jimi Hendrix, followed by Western European and American hippies, many of whom have put down roots here. Savira is also famous for the annual Gnawa World Music Festival, which celebrates the traditional music of the Gnawa people. The festival attracts musicians and visitors from all over the world. The town has gained further fame as the filming location for the popular television series ‘Game of Thrones’. In the series, it was featured as the city of Astapor. As well as its rich history, Savira is famous for its unique blend of cultures, but just as much for its famous beaches, where strong winds make it a favourite meeting place for water sports enthusiasts, especially windsurfers and wakeboard and kitesurf lovers.

The town’s bustling fishing harbour witnesses traditional fishing and a lively fish market. The town is known for its handicrafts, especially woodworking and silver jewellery. The bustling local markets offer a wide range of local handicrafts, including textiles, ceramics and traditional Moroccan goods.

Casablanca – the elegant oceanfront city and financial centre

Well, I’d be lying if I said this wasn’t the city visit I was most looking forward to. Amongst the many beauties of Morocco, our imagination was captured by the war-time film Casablanca and its setting. It was a long drive from the previous town and my heart leapt when I saw the signs along the road. We soon rolled into the town, which had many surprises in store. We drove through elegant residential areas surrounded by beautiful, manicured gardens, and then the city’s huge, modern skyscrapers loomed over us – we had just passed the road to the financial and banking district. This beautiful city on the Atlantic coast boasts several ‘mosts’: Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco and the Maghreb region, and the country’s economic and business centre. The city’s port is the largest and busiest in Morocco, handling a significant part of the country’s international trade. It plays a vital role in linking Morocco to the world market. It is home to more than half of the country’s industrial plants and 60% of its industrial employment. More than half of international air passengers arrive and depart from Casablanca airport.

The city is very liveable, but it’s also a pleasure to live here, thanks to the following architectural wonders, among others. The city is home to the magnificent Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world. It features impressive architecture, including a 210-metre minaret, and is partially overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. In terms of architectural styles, Casablanca is known for its modern architecture, which blends French colonial, neoclassical, Art Deco and contemporary styles. Its modern skyscrapers are home to luxury apartments, hotels and companies. The Casablanca Corniche, an elegant waterfront promenade lined with palm trees, offers stunning views of the ocean. The city also boasts beautiful beaches.

The public transport system is very well developed, with the bus being the most popular, but there is also a huge tram network and the city is also the centre of rail transport. Casablanca is a true air, sea, rail and motorway hub. Its airports serve arrivals and departures of more than sixty airlines.

The Casablanca myth

Casablanca, the classic film “Casablanca” starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, released in 1942, has made Casablanca famous around the world. The film, so dear to us because of its Hungarian director and one of its Hungarian characters, is widely regarded as a cinematic masterpiece and one of the best films of all time, and although it was shot primarily in Hollywood, it has done much to promote the city and make it extremely popular. We also visited Rick’s Cafe, which was designed to mimic the bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in the classic film Casablanca, but unfortunately it was closed at the time.

Over the years, a number of myths and misconceptions have developed that contribute to the mystique surrounding the film, here are some of them:

“Play it again, Sam!”One of the most famous lines from the film, “Play it again, Sam!” is often attributed to Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart). However, in the film the actual line was “Play it, Sam. Play ‘As Time Goes By’.”  The misquote is now forever ingrained in popular culture.

The city of Casablanca – despite the iconic association with the film, only a small part of “Casablanca” was shot in the Moroccan city of Casablanca, much of it was filmed in a Hollywood studio. The location shots were minimal and limited to sets and background shots.

The ending – the ending of the film, in which Rick Blaine utters the famous line, “Louis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship”, was interpreted by some viewers as a sign that Rick and Ilsa (Ingrid Bergman) will probably find each other again.  However, the film deliberately leaves their future vague, so viewers can interpret the ending according to their own desires and imagination.

True events – although “Casablanca” is set during the Second World War and the German occupation of Casablanca, the film itself is a work of fiction.  The characters and events depicted are not based on real people or historical facts. The story and the setting of the film are a backdrop for questions of love, self-sacrifice and moral dilemmas.

Despite these myths and misconceptions, “Casablanca” remains a much-loved and influential film that has left a lasting mark on popular culture. Its iconic characters, memorable dialogue and timeless themes continue to captivate audiences and contribute to the enduring fandom surrounding the film.

Rabat – embassies and palaces

We drive some 87 kilometres to the capital Rabat, also on the Atlantic coast. The spotlessly clean and perfectly tidy, this historic city is the country’s seventh largest, with a population of around 580,000 and, including the Rabat-Temara and Sale agglomerations, some 1.8 million inhabitants. As the capital of one of the former royal cities, it is now the centre of diplomacy, with all embassies and important government offices. In terms of its economic role, it is an important centre of textile, food processing and construction activity, and of course a centre of tourism. It can be reached by train via the ONCF system and by plane via the nearby Rabat-Salé airport.

High on the bucket lists and official tourist rankings, Rabat’s Medina, with its traditional houses, historic monuments and bustling markets, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a fairytale world of snow-white houses and cool, airy narrow streets. As we enter behind the ornate traditional Moroccan gates, we are enchanted by the dreamy riyads that hide behind them, whether they are family homes or first-class restaurants. If possible, they are even more beautiful than the pictures we have seen of them before.

Among the historic monuments is Udaya’s Kasbah, a picturesque citadel perched on a hill at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River in the neighbourhood of the Medina district, also a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The beautiful Andalusian Garden near the Kasbah is a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city. The lush green vegetation, fountains and colourful flowers provide a tranquil relaxation in this artfully designed garden complex with fountains.

The Royal Palace is also in Rabat, the official residence of the King of Morocco. Although the palace is not open to the public, its grand gates and beautiful architecture are worth admiring from the outside.

The impressive Hassan Tower is the minaret of an unfinished mosque dating from the 12th century, commissioned at the time by Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third Caliph of the Almohad Caliphate, and intended to be the largest minaret in the world, which, if completed, would have been the largest in the Western Muslim world.

Rabat is also a modern capital, with excellent public transport and excellent access to international transport. It is also home to numerous music and contemporary art festivals. The Bou Regreg Corniche, or the promenade, is an elegant and relaxing place for quiet walks, picnics, so popular throughout the country and for enjoying the views of the river and the Atlantic Ocean.

Morocco, the football empire

After Morocco’s tremendous success at the recent World Cup, I was curious to know what was behind this incredible achievement, namely a fourth place finish. I was sure that it was a systematic talent scouting and training system that produces players of such quality that they go on to get great contracts in the strongest football leagues and lead their national eleven to such triumphs. Well, that is the case.

Morocco is making a huge effort to develop and educate young footballers through various talent scouting programmes and football academies. While there are numerous academies and youth development programmes across the country, one of the most prominent is the Mohammed VI Football Academy (Académie Mohammed VI de Football). We were very fortunate to visit the Academy and see for ourselves the meticulous work being done in the Academy’s classrooms, sports fields, recreation and other facilities.

Founded in 2006, the VI Mohammed Football Academy aims to identify and train talented young players aged between 12 and 18. The Academy focuses not only on football skills, but also on education and personal development. The Academy provides them with modern facilities, including training pitches, gyms, classrooms and accommodation. It offers a comprehensive training programme that includes technical and tactical training, physical conditioning and mental preparation. The Academy’s instructors and coaches place great emphasis on discipline, teamwork and personal development. In addition to football training, students also receive instruction in subjects such as languages, mathematics and science, ensuring a well-rounded education while building a career in football. The academy has produced many renowned Moroccan footballers who have played for both national and international teams. Some of the graduates have gone on to represent Morocco at various youth levels and have even reached European professional clubs. Numerous photos of them enrich the hallways of the Academy buildings.

Fez – leather painting, ceramics and ancient university

Well, if you’re going by car, which we are on this trip in Morocco, Fez is about two hours from the discounted price by a comfortable drive. And Fez, the former royal city, is something to see. One of the oldest and most culturally and historically significant cities in the country, it has well preserved its historic sites and traditional architecture. So much so that it is home to the oldest continuously operating university in the world, originally built as a mosque, but which has been used to teach various sciences over time; Al Qarawiyyin University, founded in the 9th century, has played a major role in Islamic science and education throughout history.

The historic Medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the largest and most impressive medieval city centres in the world. A maze of narrow streets, bustling markets and historic buildings. The Medina offers a glimpse into Morocco’s rich history and traditional way of life. You can wander around for hours, it’s not a bad idea to ask a local guide to accompany you, because it’s not easy to find your way out.

And yes – the famous leather painting.. The huge dyeing pools so often admired in previous pictures… Fez is famous for its traditional painting workshops, where ancient leather-making techniques are still practised today.  You can witness the dyeing process and enjoy a panoramic view of the tanneries from the nearby terraces. On arrival, we are given mint leaves to dampen the distinctive smell of the operations. After visiting the works, you can visit the huge leather shops in the multi-storey buildings, where you can choose from a range of high-quality products at very good prices, and bring home a souvenir.

Fez is also a centre of Moroccan handicrafts, especially intricate ceramics, coppers and textiles. It’s a tremendous experience to watch, from the firing of the clay in the kiln to the creation of tiny ornaments, as the dreamlike ceramics, tiles and homemade fountains are made inch by inch with meticulous fine workmanship. The town’s workshops, large and small, offer a treasure trove of handmade products and the chance to watch craftsmen at work.

Fez is renowned for its rich history and cultural heritage, as I mentioned earlier, including the city’s many beautiful mosques, masterpieces of exquisite Islamic architecture.  Here are a few of them: the aforementioned Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, an architectural marvel with intricate decorations and an impressive minaret. The Bou Inania Madrasa and Mosque, known for its impressive tiling and intricate carvings of the 14th century mosque, is a remarkable example of Marinid architecture. Also known as the Grand Mosque of Fez, the Al-Andalus Mosque was built during the reign of the Idrisid dynasty in the 9th century. Exploring the ancient streets and alleyways of the city reveals many more hidden architectural gems, each of unique beauty and historical significance.