Direct flights from Budapest to Yerevan finally take-off

Although this debate still lingers, personally I sensed that democratic Armenia, with its Christian roots, functions like a European country. The general atmosphere was fairly similar to Southern Europe, and thus Yerevan, the capital, itself was not too much of a culture shock when finally there. But what was most intriguing and really stood out when it comes to cruising around the countryside, is that the spirited cultural heritage dates back centuries and, in some cases, millenniums.

The first thing to realise with Armenia, known locally as “Hayastan”, is that this was the first country to conform to Christianity, sometime between 301 and 314 AD. Christianity has been the state religion ever since with the Armenian Apostolic Church. There is also a minority of Orthodox followers, with some Catholics and Muslims too. Much of today’s hospitality is based around church-tourism, and with the abundance of churches, monasteries and occasional fortresses it is clear to see why. Whether you are a believer or not, it would be difficult not be inspired and uplifted by these impressive sights, as they are most remarkable and make being on the road in Armenia very eventful. Also, the beauty of the local church choirs is deeply stirring – as you will discover when there.

The currency is the dram, and at time of writing 1 British pound or 4200 Hungarian Forints is approximately 500 drams. The language is an Indo-European variety, with Russian second spoken. But since Armenia gained independence in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union, English is the next best thing with the younger generations, as well as other Western European languages.

Armenia has a tourist infrastructure. Although it is not comparable in size and scale to the (over-) developed tourism scene in much of the Western world, it does not matter. Armenia provides all comforts and needs, regardless of budget, to facilitate curious travellers. Central Yerevan is where it’s at for hotels, museums and entertainment. When it comes to cuisine, I think it would be fair to say that probably the country has more in common with oriental food rather than much else. “Lavash” and “Matnakash“ are locally produced flat bread specialties. This can follow with other delicacies such as Ghapama (stuffed pumpkin), Gata (sweet pastry), Topik (chickpea snack), Khorovats (barbecue) and much more.

Armenia produces a wide range of excellent fruit, vegetables and wines. And when hospitality is being served, be prepared – the generous hosts will pile up the numerous portions on many side-dishes before your eyes for sure! If you are unable to eat everything in sight, the best way to overcome this overwhelming obstacle and not appear too dismissive is to at least take small amounts of each dish to show willing – and consume with a smile.

When visiting churches and heritage sites, it is customary to dress in relatively smart–ish clothes, and buy candles from a caretaker to light inside. Another thing about local etiquette is that when you have finished observing the interior and said your prayers, walk backwards when leaving so that you will not turn your back on God.

Along with its singular language, Armenia has a distinctive alphabet of 39 letters that derived at around 4 AD. Fortunately many of today’s main road signs feature both their script and international Roman characters.

What is probably the best known feature relating to Armenian life and culture is the greater region’s well-defined mention in the Bible, concerning Noah’s Ark. It clearly states in Genesis that after the flood the ark finally grounded on Mount Ararat, which is a monumental 5137-meter peak in neighboring Turkey that features all-year-round snow and is easily seen from Yerevan and elsewhere. This is a wonder and splendour in every sense, allowing Armenians pride in saying they are descended from Noah and his family.

In relation to recent times, the most famous Armenian is chanson singer and all-round entertainer Charles Aznavour (1924-2018). His parents had escaped the tragic Armenian genocide of 1915 and made their way to Paris, where he was born. Needless to say, but he is the local hero who continually supported his country throughout his lifetime. His music and films play on, as witnessed by the many statues, monuments, museum and various other tributes around Yerevan and elsewhere for all to respectfully admire.

Armenia is a very high-up country. Its average altitude is 1370 meters and only 10% of the land is less than 1000 meters above sea level. Parts are very mountainous and much of the country is more a high plateau fissured by deep gorges. This rich, colourful volcanic soil is very fertile, but irrigation is essential due to low rainfall. Some forests and farming also play a big part in the life and economy. Apricots are symbolic mascots seen everywhere, as they are both very filling and contribute to the “Ararat” brandy industry.

When it comes to general safety, although this proud nation survived many tragedies and found eventual freedom, regrettably war broke out with neighboring Azerbaijan in 1994. This same matter erupted again recently and tension between the two countries remains, with the final outcome uncertain. The UK Foreign Office advises avoiding the conflict zones, which are mostly around the mutual border, but elsewhere in Armenia is relatively safe.

The Christian faith is of paramount importance to many Armenians. Their church and traditions have bound Armenian communities for the past 1700-plus years. The world population of Armenians is about 10 million, with a diaspora of some six to seven million living abroad (mostly in France and the US). They frequently send money to their former homeland to help with obvious needs of their own people. Those three million living in Armenia itself are still dependent on outside help to supplement their needs, such as restoring old infrastructure, developing tourism and repairing roads – the list continues.

Yerevan

The capital Yerevan is a pleasure to see, one of the world’s oldest cities. Remarkably, it is 29 years older than Rome, though you may be excused for not realising because much of the center was rebuilt in fairly modernist style throughout the 20th century. On the outskirts is the River Hrazdan which flows in from Lake Sevan, 60 kilometers further on. Yerevan’s central Republic Square hosts some fine cubist buildings that now hold modern hotels, plus there is the History Museum and various government departments. Surprisingly perhaps, Yerevan was not the capital until 1918.

A brief 10-minute walk through the centre will take you to the National Opera and Ballet Theatre. Behind this venue is the leafy green Martiros Saryan Park and further on is the all-important and perhaps singular Cascade complex. This unique attraction was constructed of white travertine stone between 1971 and 1980, and is thus mainly an architectural heritage from the Soviet era. The Cascade is five hillside terraces connected by 572 steps. The structure is 302 meters high, 50 meters wide and covers 13 hectares with a 15-degree slope. The terrace consists of a zone bordered by 15 columns symbolically reflecting Armenia’s historical heritage. In the inner part, elevators and escalators connect all platforms from the initial ground floor to the peak, from where on a clear day one can see the Ararat Valley as well as downtown Yerevan.

The Cascade makes a convenient meeting point for tourists and local people alike. There are plenty of upmarket cafes and restaurants nearby, with classical and jazz concerts often during spring, summer and early autumn. Spectators sit on the steps, as if at an amphitheatre.

Apart from an occasional walk away from the main tourist scene into the suburbs at sunrise and to Charles Aznevour Square, my last visit was to the important and very sombre 1915 Genocide Memorial and Museum, which is a short excursion from the city center. It was built in 1965 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this tragedy and has become a very important and informative landmark. World leaders, as well as Pope John Paul II have made tributes there and continue to do so.

Outside Yerevan – to the wilderness monasteries

Outside Yerevan in any direction is a wonder and splendour in every sense. The general scenery is stunning, and reaching nearby sites is not too demanding. My excelling hosts, Seda and Konstantin showed me some very impressive landmarks. “Let the photographs say it all rather than lesser-knowing me” very much comes to mind at this more delicate stage of my article, as each church, temple and similar requires much intensive research for another time.

My first two destinations were the Geghard and Garni monasteries, which is a 70-kilometer round trip from the capital. When approaching these and other landmarks, one is usually greeted by a caretaker selling candles to light inside.

Geghard is a medieval monastery in Kotayk province, east of Yerevan, and is surrounded by cliffs. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site with enhanced protection status. Whilst the main chapel was built in 1215, the monastery complex was founded in the 4th century by “Gregory the Illuminator” who was the founder and first official head of the Armenian Apostolic Church. In the 13th century Armenian Prince Prosh Khaghbakian took over the church and started to build Geghard Monastery as it is now known today.

Nearby is the Garni Temple, which is the only standing Greco-Roman colonnaded building in Armenia. It is the best-known structure and symbol of Pre-Christian Armenia and has been described as the “easternmost building of the Graeco-Roman world” and gives something similar to Shakespearian atmosphere.

The structure was probably built by King Tiridates I in the first century AD as a temple to the sun god Mihr. After Armenia’s conversion to Christianity in the early fourth century it was converted into a royal summer house. It collapsed in a 1679 earthquake. Renewed interest in the 19th century led to excavations in the early and mid-20th century, and its eventual reconstruction between 1969 and 1975. The temple is constructed of locally quarried grey basalt and was assembled without using mortar. Instead, the blocks are bound together by iron and bronze clamps. Garni village is 30 kilometers east of Yerevan.

The following day, my next sortie took me southwards to the famed Khor Virap monastery, a 40-kilometer drive to the most famous tourist attraction in Armenia. What particularly distinguishes this landmark is that in addition to the splendid monastery, there is Mount Ararat in the background, which prevailed in Greater Armenia from time gone by. But due to past plights, this scenic Old Testament landmark – the biblical mountain – is now a few kilometres over the border, on the Turkish side today.

In the 5th century a chapel was built in Khor Virap. In 1662 a much larger one was also built. Khor Virap has undergone several restorations and has remained the epitome of Armenian religious culture ever since. Although touristy, it is definitely worth a visit, especially when the visibility is good (usually in spring or autumn) for the best panoramic view of “Noah’s Mountain”. This place of worship and its notable backdrop are frequently seen on the front of many travel guides, on souvenirs and online sites.

Then I visited Noravank, another must-see landmark combined with a rugged wilderness wonder. Noravank, meaning ”new monastery”, is 122 kilometers east of Yerevan near the town of Yeghegnadzor in a narrow gorge of high brick-red cliffs surrounding the monastery. This attraction is best known for its two-storey Surb Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God) Church, which grants access to the second floor by way of a narrow stone staircase on the front face of the building. This highly atmospheric monastery was founded in 1105 by Bishop Hovhannes. In 2002 it became part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Tentative List for Armenia.

My final pilgrimage took me to the greener and more forested Lake Sevan region. Sevanavank Monastery, 70 kilometers north-east of the capital, is a retreat on a peninsula at the north-western shore of the lake. Lake Sevan has a perimeter of 220 kilometers, which we can compare to Lake Balaton’s 170 kilometers. According to an inscription in one of the two churches there, the monastery was founded in 874 AD. The shoreline churches are Surp Arakelots, meaning the “Holy Apostles”, and Surp Astvatsatsin, meaning the “Holy Mother of God”. They are both symmetrical with octagonal tops, and thus quite similar to each other. When there, take in the splendid views of the lake area and listen to the waves on the shoreline.

Personally, I was captivated by all I saw. I really had not seen anything like them ever. All made individual impressions on me – especially Geghard, Khor Virap and Noravank. Many of the more popular and nearby sites, such as Khor Virap and Garni, and perhaps some lesser-known ones, are nowadays available by tourist buses with guides. But in order to get by safely, a good pair of hiking shoes is advised.

I left Armenia after four very full days, knowing I had seen so much but at the same time seen so little too. Still, it was important to at least fulfill this first and very essential itinerary. I will definitely look forward to accomplishing more when it comes to a longer time frame. For those with open minds and in search of great adventures, Armenia comes highly recommended.

Getting to Armenia

Travelling to Armenia is easier than ever. Nowadays it is visa-free for most nationalities and many European flights connect to Yerevan International Zvartnots Airport. I travelled directly there and back from Budapest by Wizz Air in July this year. Armenia is about three hours flying time from Budapest and five hours from London.

It’s also easy to access land crossings from equally tourist-friendly Georgia. The Georgian capital Tbilisi is about 280 kilometres from Yerevan. Batumi, the Black Sea capital of the Georgian Riviera, is about 450 kilometers. Train services are available.

As of now the southern border area with Turkey is closed until further notice. The only way to get there and back is by flying from Yerevan. To get closer to Noah – and the impressive Ararat peak – the nearest airport is Kars, a township in the far east of Turkey. From there it’s another 200 kilometers eastbound by land and at least five kilometers upwards until completion.

The UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to and from any Armenian and Azerbaijan border areas for obvious reasons. As for Iran, contact its embassy for essential information before travel. To travel from Yerevan to Tehran by road, this 1100-kilometer jaunt could theoretically be achieved in one full day.

For this and more about tourism in Armenia, see Explore Armenia | The Hidden Track | Armenia Travel