Caught in two minds, both OK

This is Sunday Brunch time, which means a lie-in in the morning, skip breakfast and no peeling, slicing, dicing, basting, carving – no slaving away over the dreaded hot stove of legend. The most we have to think about is whether this Sunday Brunch is a great way to end the week past, in which case more a time for reflection,  or a great way to start the week ahead, and thus a time for anticipation?

The different standpoints might be a weighty matter for some esteemed brains’ trust to rule upon, but, truth be told, it is a matter of little concern for the diners sitting back replete and relaxed. After all, everything has been laid on for them, in fact handed to them on a plate, as the saying goes. While it may be Sunday, the menu was thought out on the previous Tuesday or Wednesday to permit planning and purchasing, and actual preparation of the food began on the Friday and Saturday, to allow marination, for instance.

And while the InterContinental’s ARZ Lebanese Restaurant may open for Sunday Brunch diners at 12.30pm, the kitchen staff of half a dozen or so has been hard at it since 6am. And hard at it is correct, because one effect of the uncertain time of the pandemic has been the loss of some cooks and assistants, so these days it’s all hands to the wheel.

There’s a lot to do. The brunch can accommodate up to 80 people and there are a few dozen items on the menu. The head chef performs a weekly balancing act, catering for light and heavy tastes – the modern and the old-time – and encompassing cultural differences with Hungarian, Middle Eastern and international cuisines.

On this particular Sunday there is, then, the choice of two soups: Jerusalem Artichokes or Beef Consommé with vegetables and the type of egg-based pasta called garganelli.

A live pasta station, namely attended by a chef, features the tube-shaped pasta of varying lengths and diameters called rigatoni, enlivened with shrimps, cherry tomato, basil and parmesan shavings. It is aimed at the kids and there are a number of them dining with parents today, or playing with toys in the designated kids’ corner where a young fellow looks after them.

Talking of playing, a pianist keeps going for the three hours of brunch, tinkling an international songbook that features such American fare as “Bridge Over Troubled Water” and “Raindrops Keep Fallin’ on My Head” and French classics popularised by Edith Piaf, “Les Feuilles Mortes” (“Autumn Leaves”) and “La Vie en Rose” (literally “Life in Pink”).

At the carving station, grain-fed Whole Roasted Argentinian Rib-Eye has been shipped in fresh and is served with sauce béarnaise. Or the alternative is Baked Duck with braised cabbage, apple, roast potato and garlic thyme jus.

Main courses run to Seared Salmon with spinach sauce, “Rablóhús” Pork Skewer with vegetables and bacon, Herb Roasted Chicken Thighs seared on the grill with cherry tomato and mushroom ragout, and, to dispel wintery blues, a classic Beef Bourguignon stew in red wine with vegetables.

Our room, the Arz Lebanese Restaurant, guarantees authentic and traditional Middle Eastern cuisine in the form of a mezze selection and grilled kafta meat. Tahini, Lebneh, moussaka, stuffed vine leaves, grilled shish taouk and beef shawarma are there to tantalise.

The staff must, of course, change the menu according to the seasonal vegetable and fruit availabilities (not to mention for returning guests), and today the salad bar has romaine, iceberg, rocket, baby spinach, carrots, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, radishes, peppers and toasted nuts and seeds, all with a choice of three dressings.

The appetisers also go for a light and fresh Mediterranean slant and today this means a selection of antipasti with, among others, smoked trout and butterfish, vitello tonnato, ruccola, seafood salad and duck rilette. There are breads and a cheese board, natch.

Desserts come from a home-made mix and some of the nine available are without egg or cream. King of them all is the hot Máglyarakás (Bonfire stack). This is a layered soft and creamy bread pudding with jam or similar and topped with meringue.

All come with the officially required food allergy and intolerance information.

The restaurant is nicely designed, clean and has plenty of space between tables. The price is HUF 16,500 a person plus 12 percent service charge, which includes the full rich buffet lunch selection and beverages such as Hungarian wine and beer, soft drinks and coffee and tea.

It’s end-January/cusp of February and we are slowly coming out of hibernation. The all-glass front faces the Várkert Bazár over the Danube, and this outing is an ideal weekend treat, the reward for what’s been a hectic week of work, children, shopping, cleaning, bill-paying, travelling around, etc. Or, alternatively, time to plan the next hectic week ahead.