Bratislava is perhaps not the first destination people in Budapest might think of for a weekend break, but according to Lucy Mallows now is the time to go. In the spring and summer, she says, the city can be “really gorgeous” and from the end of April “out come all the terrace tables and chairs outside the pubs, restaurants and cafés, turning the Old Town into one big open-air café.”
As with her other guides to Transylvania and Slovakia, of which Bratislava is the capital, it is enthusiasm which shines through this work. Slowly but surely you are drawn in by the author’s subtle appreciation of the city, which is barely two hours away from Budapest. Sometimes it is not so subtle. Beer lovers will themselves appreciate her frequent positive comments about the beverage, as well as her useful listing of over a dozen local varieties.
Mallows says that Bratislava packs a vast selection of cultural and leisure attractions into one pocket-sized capital, “with a huge choice of museums, galleries, churches and historic monuments”. It is rather surprising, therefore, that this guide devotes only just over ten per cent of its volume to such attractions. Perhaps more would have been needed, particularly in view of the fact that a fair amount of text covers history, albeit mainly the history of Slovakia and the Slovaks rather than of Bratislava itself.
Down to details
On the other hand, the strength of this work lies in its nature as a practical guide, brimming with information about accommodation possibilities, eating and drinking places, entertainment and shopping, as well as details about public transport, banks, health and safety matters, red tape, local customs and much more. This is the second, revised edition of the work and as it was published earlier this year, we can justifiably assume that the plethora of practical information - opening hours, telephone numbers, websites, etc. - is up to date. There is a wealth of detail here, plus tips and recommendations. A number of clear, colourful maps and a plan of the city’s tram routes are also very useful.
Throughout it is the Old Town’s lively atmosphere which repeatedly comes to the fore in this guide, not so much the historic nature of the place but the “wall-to-wall, eat-out city with cafés, bars, cocktail venues, restaurants, self-service canteens and stand-up buffet stalls” … so many in fact that “you’re totally spoilt”. That’s assuming you can avoid the stag party groups. In recent years Bratislava has become a noted destination for Western European, particularly British, revellers. The feeling this guide gives is that you can avoid them if you want, but should you happen to end up in a hotel with a noisy group, Mallows has a tip for that too - before you go don’t forget to pack some ear-plugs!
Buy the book
Bratislava: City Guide by Lucy Mallows, 250 pages, illustrated, paperback, Bradt Travel Guides, 2009
