Bicsár oversaw the kitchen of the famous Buda restaurant Alabárdos for almost 20 years, cooking for many famous persons, from Andy Vajna to György Soros to Viktor Orbán. Still – some two years ago Bicsár had had it, and he hit the road: "I had achieved everything that I wanted in Hun-gary back then, except for the Michelin star, and my daughter just started studying to be a pastry chef. I advised her to move abroad for her studies, and so we moved to London together."

Little did he know that fate had other plans for him. "I did not stay in London for a long time, I was invited to the United States, to Florida, for a project, which was a surprise for me." Bicsár, ac-companied by a few Hungarian businessmen, opened a restaurant there. Their successful coopera-tion was the reason why he returned to Budapest after a short time.


Family restaurant with organic food

"They saw that was a cool guy and they wanted to open a restaurant with me in Budapest too," the chef jokes merrily. While planning the concept he was inspired by the gastronomic impressions gathered in the land of unlimited opportunities: "Organic and healthy cooking is a great trend in the USA at the moment!"

After months of preparation, Traktor Farmfood Restaurant, a modern family restaurant in the heart of the city centre and focusing on organic ingredients, finally opened its gates in September.

Hungarian cuisine, which is often described as fatty and heavy, is not in the spotlight here, they rather offer a balanced and healthy menu. Lots of vegetables, fish, lean meats and poultry are also listed, besides many vegetarian and vegan options.

When possible they try to source all the ingredients from Hungary. Bicsár often checks the producers himself, to ensure quality. Of course, they don’t want to go to extremes, so beefsteaks and fish are allowed to be bought from abroad.


Self-designed main dish

One of the restaurant’s special features is that guests can create their own main dishes. They can combine, for instance, grilled cheese, duck breast, lamb-steak or fish with all kinds of colourful gar-nishes, such as roasted potatoes with eggplant cream, barley risotto with red beet, grilled celery and green cabbage mix or even mushrooms grilled on the lava stone, as they desire.

When we ask Bicsár if it’s difficult to allow guests the right to choose what to pair with what, he answers: "Why should I dictate to people what to eat? I learned in the USA how much they love to choose everything individually. I wanted to try this here too; this is what makes this restaurant so unique."

The portions are large, served in separate bowls, so that people can easily share the different kinds of garnishes. This is also something that Bicsár imported from the US, where this kind of service is called "family-style", since everyone can serve themselves from any dish, just like when sitting around the family table.


A real Porsche decorates the room

Traktor Farmfood Restaurant’s other unique selling point is the large selection of fish and seafood, which you would normally only find at specialised fish restaurants. There is a separate counter with a daily changing offer of fresh salmon, sea brass, pike-perch, trout and others. Even oysters are offered, waiting on ice-beds to be slurped from their shells. The reason for this surprisingly wide offer is easy to spot, since the other owner of the restaurant besides Bicsár is the owner of the Budapest Big Fish Restaurant.

The restaurant got its name not only because it offers fresh farm products but also due to the tractor standing in the middle of the room. "It’s fully operational," Bicsár explains enthusiastically, like a little boy. The red machine was made in 1961 and is a Porsche. The restaurant owners found it in Germany and it was love at first sight.

Fortunately, the spacious guest room, which seats some 190, allows such an extravagant decoration. In a surprising way, the large machine and some olive trees fit quite organically into the otherwise rather modern and minimalist interior.


Evaluation

At Traktor Farmfood Restaurant guests are served high quality at comparably affordable prices. Modern cooking technologies and the know-how of a renowned chef meet high-value ingredients from selected producers. The flexible menu and the service concept will surely make the place a favourite for families. This establishment is a good choice for mixed groups with different dietary requirements too. The kitchen and the rooms can be rented for larger company events and celebrations, and they offer a private room for up to 20 guests.


Traktor Farmfood Restaurant
Budapest, District V, 2 Zrínyi Street
Open: daily 12.00 to 20.00
Reservations at (+36-1) 782-5085 and info@traktorbudapest.hu
See www.facebook.com/traktorbudapest/

Prices
Appetisers: HUF 1200-3900
Main dishes: HUF 3400-21,000
Desserts: HUF 1200
Lunch menu (2 or 3 courses): HUF 4500 / 4900


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