View to a thrill

Review: Hotel President’s Panorama Terrace, District V

The Hotel President’s glamorous helipad restaurant above the rooftops of Budapest can hardly be beaten as a venue for a romantic dinner. The 360-degree panorama of the capital is spectacular, rivalling the views from the dome of St Stephen’s Basilica.  This is also the perfect vantage point to appreciate the exquisite secessionist roof of the nearby Hungarian State Treasury building designed by Ödön Lechner. 

Despite the extraordinary location, the recently-opened Hotel Panorama Terrace restaurant does not seem to have been discovered by many tourists yet. In fact, it feels like an elegant sanctuary away from the bustle of the city below. The tables are so widely spaced that diners can be blissfully unaware of the guests at the neighbouring tables. Added to that is the faultless service and the opportunity to take a relaxed stroll around the helipad between courses.  The George Michael background music when I was there, however, felt like overkill in such a naturally romantic location.
The menu is relatively short and consists of a mixture of Hungarian and international dishes. The cold soups are a refreshing way to start the meal in summer. The excellent fruit soup is served with almonds and little túró (Hungarian curd cheese) balls in a separate dish. Hungarian-style starters include cold foie gras with figs braised in Tokaj wine and goulash soup made from Hungarian grey longhorn beef.
For the main courses the turkey breast roulade stuffed with fairy ring mushrooms (priced at around HUF 7,900) is good, if not quite as thrilling as the surroundings. The dishes are immaculately presented and very substantial.
If money is no object guests can also splurge on dishes such as beef sirloin with balsamic red wine and foie gras or Hungarian grey longhorn steak stuffed with forest mushrooms.
The desserts are the kind to really tuck into, rather than a light way to end the meal. Two generous slices of túró and apricot pie for example are served with strawberries and star fruit as well as a jug of sour cherries steeped in liqueur and chocolate sauce. 
The prices are steep by Hungarian standards, but for a sense of occasion there can hardly be a better place to eat in the city.  Since the helipad is very exposed, on a hot summer’s day it is best to book a table for around 8pm or later and then watch the sun set over the city as you eat. In windy weather choose the hotel’s Intermezzo restaurant on the ground floor instead to avoid what could be an extreme dining experience.

Price points

Starters: HUF 4,000-4,900
Soups: HUF 1,900-2,500
Mains: HUF 4,000-9,900
Desserts: HUF 2,500

Hotel President’s Panorama Terrace
Open from 4pm to 11pm
 District V, Hold u. 3-5
 Tel. (06-1) 373-8207
 etterem@hotelpresident.hu
 www.hotelpresident.hu

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